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  • The First Ascent of Pt 4766 The First Ascent of Pt 4766

    • From: MRoyer4
    • Description:
      In July 2010, I traveled to a remote part of Kyrgyzstan known as the Djangart. It is a land that remains relatively unexplored by climbers, with a dozen or so 5,000 m peaks yet to see an ascent. Together with teammates Matt Traver and Dan Clark, I put up new routes on three virgin peaks:

      Horseman's Horror, D+, 700 m on Peak Howard-Bury (4766)
      Will Your Anchor Hold?, TD-, 700 m on Peak Sutherland (5080)
      Postcard for the Chief, AD+, 650 m on Peak of Illumination (5048)

      It was an incredible experience, one of the greatest of my life. The visceral remoteness of the region has kept most climbers away, but it's what attracted us to the region. We faced a demanding approach, daunting weather, and major health issues, but we accomplished our goals in style.

      It wouldn't have been possible without a lot of help, however. I would like to extend my sincerest gratitude towards the organizations and companies that provided financial and material support for our expedition: The Gore-Tex Shipton/Tilman Grant, The Mount Everest Foundation, The Jeremy Willson Charitable Trust, The British Mountaineering Council, The Welsh Sports Association, The American Alpine Club REI Challenge Fund, JustRopes.com, and HemCon Medical Technologies.

      Below is an excerpt from our expedition blog describing our first ascent of Pt 4766, later dubbed Peak Howard-Bury. If you want to read the full blog, visit our webpage at http://www.kyrgyzstan2010.com.

      *****


      “The rope is cut!”
      “What!?”
      “The rope is cut, it’s about 20 m short!”
      “How did that happen!?”

      We still don’t know exactly what happened, but can only assume that the horsemen who helped us haul our gear also helped themselves to some of our rope. It was definitely all there when we got the ropes (multiple flakes to get the kinks out), it was definitely all there when we packed our bag (Matt flaked them into the dry bag), it was definitely not all there when we started climbing.

      After a day and a half approach – we could do it faster now, but the moraine we chose to follow was a hellacious disaster, but that’s part of the peril of exploring new routes – we started up the peak just above our camp. Without a topo for that specific area (it was left in the US as we had expected to be climbing further to the east), we didn’t know what we were climbing, but it looked awesome: a perfect snow/ice couloir to very near the summit of an otherwise rocky pyramid. As we saw later, it was Pt 4766, sitting at one of the dividing points for the Djangartynbashi Glacier. We’d come up the glacier hoping to climb Pt 5048, which we had seen from the Djangart Valley, and perhaps another peak. When we arrived on scene, 4766 was calling our name and we decided it would be a worthy climb before continuing up the glacier to climb 5048.

      We reached our camp on the glacier in the mid-afternoon. Some large boulders left in the medial moraine and a nearby run-off stream made for a hospitable camp. With 5048 obscured by clouds at the head of the valley, but with otherwise clear skies (relatively), we lounged around listening to music after constructing a windbreak for our small campsite. When the weather began to roll in around 5:00 or 6:00, we hurried to cook up some ramen before diving into our tent and bivy. We set the alarm for 4:00 a.m. – the route didn’t look that huge – and went to bed hoping the weather would roll through as it often did.

      After hitting snooze once or twice, we got up around 4:30. It had been clear most of the night (I generally don’t sleep well in tiny tents, so I was up), but now was overcast. Overcast in the Djangart is fine weather, so we packed our bags. Just as we were leaving though, the snow started. It wouldn’t relent for a solid ten hours. Luckily, it wasn’t heavy enough to stop us, just enough to keep us wet. The route finding would be straightforward, we reasoned, and the slope steep enough that avalanche danger would not be a problem.

      Matt led off, laboriously and frustratingly postholing his way up the first 200 m, which gradually steepened to 55 degrees. As we approached a large rock buttress that we had identified the previous day, snow was sloughing off the higher slopes; never enough to take us down but enough to keep us on our toes. Sloughing snow is actually a welcome sign, as it means the snow isn’t accumulating to unload as a larger avalanche.

      We got the second rope out of our bag and roped up to begin belayed climbing. Dan led the first pitch, but didn’t get very far before the green rope ran out. It seemed a bit odd, but maybe the scale of the face was screwing with our perception of distance, a common issue. Often two half ropes aren’t exactly the same length, so with little concern I just ran off to the next belay (Matt saw how much was left on his rope, the brown rope – a lot – but I was already in move-fast-its-an-alpine-climb mode). We gathered at Dan’s belay station and Matt took the next pitch. There were a few words, but we went on. As he was climbing, I was restacking the ropes so Dan could have an easier belay. I got to the end of the green rope, but there was A LOT of brown left. I flaked the excess out – about 20 m! WHAT IS GOING ON?! I looked up at Matt, nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I looked at the ropes again. The tail at the end of Dan’s knot didn’t have the factory seal. That’s weird. Where the heck was the rest of our rope? I shouted up to Matt to inform him of the problem.

      Matt made an anchor at the end of the 40 m pitch and Dan and I climbed up. We speculated that the horsemen had cut our rope, but that didn’t help solve our predicament. What to do, what to do? We already weren’t moving extremely fast; we were un-acclimated and inefficient on our first climb together. 40 m pitches would take ages. I proposed that we throw the 40 m rope in a bag and simulclimb on the remaining 60m rope. To me, the terrain was well within my comfort level. Matt was a bit more hesitant whereas Dan would go along with just about anything. I offered to lead to whole thing and Matt agreed to the idea. (I know, I know, when simulclimbing the climber less likely to fall should second. In this case, I wasn’t worried about Matt falling and psychologically it was easier for him, always the more cautious, to second.)

      We kept chugging along; now simulclimbing, we moved a bit faster. I placed a screw every 20-30 m, enabling us to get in at least 120 m before aving to set up an anchor and re-shuffle gear. The ‘hero’ ice was soft and sticky, gradually increasing from 55 to 70 or 75 degrees. After a few segments, the falling snow began to taper off. I grabbed my camera from my bag and snapped a few photos of Matt and Dan on the face. We got into a beautiful rhythm and progressed smoothly up the face. The climbing was just challenging enough to keep things interesting while not raising my nerves. Bliss.

      Leading the rope team after an extended segment of simulclimbing, I placed my last screw and yelled down that I was going to gun it for the ridge, about 60 m above. After Matt expressed his concern, I relented and traversed to the other side of the couloir. I threw in a sketchy nut, pounded in a marginal piton, and shoved my shoulder into a corner of the wall that arched over the couloir, reminding me of Pinnacle Gully on Mt. Washington. I belayed Matt and Dan up to the frigid stance.

      With a refreshed rack of gear, I set off for the top. After a half rope of 70 degree ice, the slope relented just before the ridge. I plowed my way through two-foot deep powder, desperately trying to reach the line of sun just above me. The last few meters to the knife-edge ridge involved some tricky climbing on steep, 80-degree snow-plastered ice. Not helping was the tug on the rope I received to inform me I had reached the end. I kept going, pulling my way onto the ridge after Matt had started climbing. I gazed around at a magnificent display: the fresh snow frosted the surrounding landscape of 5,000 m virgin peaks. I took a few steps down to the other side of the sharp ridge, pounded in two pickets, and belayed Matt and Dan the rest of the way to the top.

      Unfortunately, just as they reached the ridge, the clouds closed in and we were engulfed in another white-out snowstorm. I collected the gear and headed up the ridge towards the summit, postholing along the way and groveling over some mixed rock-and-powder terrain. Almost there, Matt started moving again as we continued simulclimbing. As I scrambled over the final few meters, I threw my arms up and let up a shout. My first unclimbed summit. Success never felt so sweet.

      I belayed Matt and Dan up as the snow and wind intensified. Together on the summit, we sat there for about three minutes before heading back down in reverse order. It’s a shame the weather couldn’t have held out for just 30 minutes longer.

      Now, you’d think the story was over; after all, we’d made the summit. Not so fast. Earlier when we had reached the ridge, we peered down the backside and saw a downclimbable snow slope. It looked like a faster descent than the alternative of making 40 m rappels down the face we had just climbed. Let’s go for it, we agreed.

      As we began to downclimb, belayed from anchors, the visibility became almost zero. We chose to keep descending in the treacherous conditions. At one point, I had downclimbed the full 60 m ropelength, but was completely unable to make an anchor – fresh snow over choss, nasty stuff. I stayed in place while Matt and Dan connected the 40 m rope, hoping to get me far enough down to find a suitable anchor. I didn’t find much better and belayed Dan and Matt down on one of the crappiest pairs of stubby screws I’ve ever placed. I took the lead again, searching for a way down in the low visibility. On top of the white-out, darkness was now setting in. I traversed the slope, growing increasingly nervous about avalanche conditions. No dice, I came to a steep ravine. I opted for the more direct route straight down, spotting a gully that cut diagonally back across the face. The terrain below didn’t look hospitable, but maybe, just maybe, there was a shot this gully could lead us all the way down.

      After the others reached me, I set of, using our joined ropes to travel 100 m through deep powder. At the end of the rope, things looked promising, but I couldn’t see too far around a corner. I belayed Matt and Dan down before setting off again. After another 100 m, our luck ran out. Cliff. Waterfall flowing over cliff. Hey, at least the snow had stopped.

      With no other options, we had to begin rappelling using our shortened rope. Matt made his way over to a rock wall that flanked the gully and cleared some cracks of ice and dirt, building an anchor with two nuts. And so it began. We had no idea where the steepening gully would lead us and no idea how many rappels we’d have to make. Would we get stuck above a blank cliff face? The poor rock quality wasn’t exactly conducive to confidence-inspiring anchors. Matt rappelled off into the pitch black. As we watched his headlamp fade away, Dan and I shared our concerns.

      In the end, it only took four raps, but in our exhaustion-induced stupor it seemed like a dozen. The whole time, Matt remained positive: “One way or another, we’re getting down.” For our last rappel, we used two Abolokovs to edge over the final half-frozen waterfall. Reaching the snow cone at the bottom and shinning my headlamp into the space below, I realized we could walk the rest of the way down the slope to the glacier. Relief.

      It was after 3:00 a.m. as we wandered back down the glacier to the refuge of our tent. Cold and exhausted from 22+ hours on the go, we dropped our packs. It’s a strange feeling that you get after completing such an arduous and lengthy climb. As tired as you are, you can’t just crawl in your sleeping bag and fall asleep. It takes a while to decompress from the high tension of living on the sharp end. We brewed some warm water to restore our comfort. I think Matt, always the hungry one, even cooked up some food. I barely had enough energy for the warm water and was the first one in the tent, which we had to shovel out from the foot plus of snow that fell during our climb. The bivy, used by Matt the previous night, was buried and soaked, so all three of us crammed into the smallest two-man tent I’ve ever been in. Yeah, it was like three sardines, but I still slept surprisingly well. A sleep of satisfaction.

      Intense sun woke us the next morning; it’s amazing how hot it can get on a glacier. Munching on some food, we chatted about the climb. We decided on the name “Horseman’s Horror,” quite descriptive of the rope-snatching and of the climb itself (well, more the descent, the climb was delightful). We coined Pt 4766 Peak Howard-Bury after an early British explorer of the Tien Shan whose diaries Jamie had read and graded the 700 m route D+. Not done with the naming, only half in jest Matt proposed calling the descent route Lenin Gully. It was probably delirious hallucinations, but he swears he saw an image of Lenin in the oppressive rock walls that bound the gully.

      We discussed the possibility of climbing another route the next day. It would be a stretch on our food, but we could do it if we wanted. There were so many options luring us, but in the end, our sensible sides won out. The fresh snow would make movement slow and left the avalanche danger high. Having only one good rope would further exacerbate the issue. We spent several hours basking in the sunlight, drying our gear, and refueling for the walk out. We set off around 1:00 p.m., taking a much more efficient route back to camp, where we arrived around 5:30. We were completely exhausted, but it was the good kind of exhaustion that reminds you that you’ve just accomplished something. Welcome to climbing in the Djangart.
    • Set (14 items)
    • 3 weeks ago
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  • Woods Canyon Hike Woods Canyon Hike

    • From: petertraylor
    • Description:
      We started to Kayak through the Canyon about a month prior to this but had a guy in our group dislocate his shoulder and we had to hike him out. We came back once the water was lower and checked out one of the coolest canyons around. There were a few ice-water swims through pools in the gorge and just spectacular scenery in general. Oh yeah and lots of rattlesnakes on the way out.
    • Set (5 items)
    • 3 months ago
    • Views: 58
  • Woods Canyon Arizona Woods Canyon Arizona

    • From: petertraylor
    • Description:
      Kayaking trip down Woods Canyon in Arizona. The creek drops over 2000ft as it comes off the Mogillon Rim. We got about 3 miles into the run when one of the guys in our group dislocated his shoulder in a sweet little drop. We ended up having to hike him out (through some cliffband) along with all the boats. That wouldn't have been a big deal but we had overnight gear in our boats so they weighed about 80 pounds each. Even with that the trip was super fun and I'm looking forward to getting back in there next winter when the creek runs again since there were some really cool drop. We went back a couple weeks later when the water was lower and hiked through the canyon. That is a separate GORE experience.
    • Set (5 items)
    • 3 months ago
    • Views: 53
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  • So what are you all up to? So what are you all up to?

    • From: colebingham
    • Description:

      For anyone who's still around here - what have you been up to in recent months? I got a job, moved down to Virginia Beach, and am learning how to surf.  Just joined the only rock climbing gym in the area, which is a blast, and I'll be down in Nicaragua for about six weeks this summer.  Anyone have any epic trips recently?

    • 3 months ago
    • Views: 51
    • Conversation: Off-topic...
  • My favorites My favorites

    • From: silentstars
    • Description:

      Best learning environment = Oregon State University Indoor Climbing Center/Outdoor Recreation Center

      Best community of intense climbers = Bishop, CA

      Most diversity in climbing and number of routes offered in an accessible area= Bend, OR

    • 4 months ago
    • Views: 245
    • Conversation: Rock Climbi...
  • best places best places

  • Move to Idaho? Chime in. Move to Idaho? Chime in.

    • From: hrothgarbike
    • Description:

      I am thinking of moving the family to Idaho.  I don't have a job there yet, but I have ideas, and I want to make a swing into working as a ski patroller part of the year.  Who here lives in the patato state?  I am thinking somewhere near Boise at the moment.  It looks like there is a lot of rock climbing, mountainbiking, skiing and the like to do there real claose by.

    • 4 months ago
    • Views: 32
    • Conversation: Off-topic...
  • Bend R&R Bend R&R

    • From: Peter_Courogen
    • Description:
      A extended weekend spent in and around Bend, OR during Spring Break 2010 Most mornings were spent doing solo dawn patrol on Mt Bachelor with my alpine touring ski setup. Being that my family is more in the zone of fair weather skiing, I made an early morning pre-dawn drive up to the ski area to scope out the conditions for the day. A decent amount of snow accumulated during this late March time-frame with over 19 inches of fresh POW over the course of a couple days. Definately not the skiing conditions the rest of the family looks for, so I got the skinning and skiing out of my system each morning and returned to the rental house to cook breakfast for all the little ladies by 10am. The rest of the days were spent mtn bike riding, running, snowpark sledding, movie watching, game playing, and hot tubbing. On our way home from Bend, we stopped by Smith Rock for a 1/2 day climbing adventure. A picture perfect day we had with sunny skies and high 60's temperatures. Smith Rock was packed, taking a good 15-20 min just to find a parking place in the overflow parking area. Everyone was able to get the most out of the opportunity and a chance to really stretch beyond their comfort zone in their own way. All was quiet in the car for the rest of the drive back to Portland with a day's worth of climbing under our belts and bellies filled from a feeding frenzy @ the Madras Subway.
    • Set (9 items)
    • 5 months ago
    • Views: 104
  • Arizona Arizona

    • From: colebingham
    • Description:
      It's just a totally different landscape than I'm used to out on the East Coast...I wish I had sick photos of the grand canyon, but I was in Tuscon for a family reunion, and only got to climb a bit during a rainstorm when the rest of my relatives were napping...but, the cacti were sweet when we all went out for a short hike, so I thought I'd post a few pics.
    • Set (4 items)
    • 7 months ago
    • Views: 161
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  • 2009 Shipton-Tilman Grant Awar 2009 Shipton-Tilman Grant Award Winners Adventure

    • From: GORETEX_admin
    • Description:
      Follow here the journal of Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock, grant recipients of Gore's Shipton/Tilman grant in 2009. With Gore's support, they endeavored to take on the North Face of Chang Himal in Nepal. For more information about the Shipton/Tilman Grant program, visit the sponsorships section of gore-tex.com

      The North Face of Chang Himal was for us a 2 day jeep ride and a 10 day walk in. It is an obvious objective all be it a long way from anywhere. 1800-metres of uncompromising and steep draw the eye, the imagination. Sweeping snow chutes, cones and ice fringes, seracs the size of semi-detached houses, bulging rotten rock, flutings and a pointy summit. Trekkers with no aspirations whatsoever sit and stare in awe. Mention that you intend to attempt to climb this face and watch their faces crack. They look and then they see you are serious. Expressions change to worry doubt and concern. It is not that they worry about our physical health, more mental stability. Expressions then change once again as they realise they are stood with crazy people.

      Please do not misunderstand, this face is not death, it is not the living end, the best, the biggest, the highest the boldest the badest. In an autumn season where several new testing routes have been climbed, here in Nepal and in China, it is certainly not the hardest. What it is, what it was, was a step into the unknown, a challenge to surpass other mountain challenges we have experienced, a step onto the largest mountain face that both Houseman and I have had the (courage) to walk to the base and start climbing with just our bag packed. This is a mountain route that is not crazy, but a hard classic waiting a few more ascents. How about it?

      Night/Day 1. 29th October

      02.30. Set out from our cave/bivvy at the base of the face and gained the large snow cone at the right of the spur via an ice/rock gully. Plunging steps into the more than favourable snow I turned to watch Houseman retching and throwing up. Hmm, game over before it had started I thought. “Want to go down, try again in a few days” “Naa, I’m ok, shouldn’t of ate that meat.” It wasn’t the meat though, it was Gardia, and I suspected it would get worse pretty soon… but respect to the Youth, 1800-metres to go or to be more precise, approximately 2400 metres more to go when you added the traversing and he was still game.

      We soloed the narrowing on the left side as much as possible sensing the seracs above 30° - 60°, until level with the top of the first buttress. A 70° unconsolidated slope/runnel was then followed and eventually the first rock buttress reached. Rope out, a direct line was climbed to the right of the spur M4+ 60m and a further 120m was simul-climbed. It was approximately 3pm now but knackered and at about 6000m, a fin of snow gave a reasonable dig out step for us to recover and spend the night. Houseman was carrying a light single skin tent, ‘waste of time I thought.’ And I was right never pitched it once…

      Day 2. 30th October. The second rock band. (make or break time)

      A rejuvenated Youth took the lead from the bivvy stating ‘it looks ok,’ little do you know I thought as he climbed a steep runnel with sack and an unprotected bulge at its top. M5.55m.

      “Take your pick” was the Youths retort as I pulled the bulge and looked up at three possible overhanging continuations leading through the rock band. “None” was the reply but eventually I took a shallow overhanging corner line sprayed with a sheen of ice. Not the best with a big bag and above 6000m. Huffing and hanging on, I pulled the exit mush with relief after 60 testing meters. M6.

      Pitch 3 of the rock band included traversing right to belay beneath another vague shallow rotten snow runnel. M4.55m.

      pitch 4 was fortunately not as steep or as rotten as pitch 2 and went ok. M4. 65m.

      The biggest roof on the route was traversed beneath while hunting for a bivvy site that didn’t materialise (M4, 70°) and in the dark a snow slope was reached on the right of the roof. 70m. A final 30m of 70° was climbed until back on the crest directly above the roof and at 7pm a 30cm step was cut for ‘oh, what a comfy evening.’ The approximate height on the face was 6200m. (Slowed us down a tad then that section!)

      Day 3. 31st October.

      The day started well with a 2.5 hour simul-climb following a broad right slanting snow ramp. 60°-70° to rejoin the crest beneath the final headwall where a rising traverse was taken, (oh deep joy), loads of rotten snow eventually lead to snow flutings on the right of the face (M4, 80m). Youth took it away crossing 2 flutings and climbing a particularly rotten bulge of rock (M4) until ensconced deep inside a fluting that gave no particular support, ‘well levitated’ I thought as I followed. 50m. The day was finished with a flounder up the fluting with no protection and a possible dead end at 6550m. The best bivvy of the route was dug out with a fine, all be it chilly, view.

      Day 4. 1st November.

      A steep flounder directly out of the top of our bivvy (made easier without the weight of rucksacks which we had left at the bivvy) brightened our slightly cold and breezy day, when, with a bit of Peruvian/Nepal unprotected jiggery pokey, we entered the guts of a continuation runnel which we hoped and prayed lead to the summit crest. (70° 180m)

      And it did… A final 100 metres of wind scoured 50° lead to the knife edge summit at midday, directly above everything we had climbed.

      After half an hour on the summit we down climbed to our bivvy where we stopped for the evening.

      Day 5. 2nd November.

      A tour de-force (from Youth) in constructing abseil anchors from very little indeed had us down in a one-er without too much drama. Setting off on one of the abseils, directly down the very steep rock band did have the old man puffing slightly but 13 hours later we hit and down climbed the initial snow gully and cone and ice runnel to nestle back into our cave feeling very happy with our lot 15 hours from leaving the high bivvy.

      Game over…

      The weather throughout the climb was very favourable, all be it a tad windy and slightly cool. The rock encountered on the climb was generally poor not favouring easy to place or find protection for either running-belays or belays. The ice was sometimes good and sometimes bad, and the snow was often rotten… all in all we had a pretty amazing time

    • Set (4 items)
    • 7 months ago
    • Views: 150
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  • Re: Calling all climbers! Re: Calling all climbers!

    • From: AaronInouye
    • Description:

      I jsut checked the link, and it seems to be working if you cut and paste it. Make sure you don't paste the space and period in at the end (like I did at first).

    • 7 months ago
    • Views: 18
    • Conversation: Rock Climbi...
  • link does not work link does not work

    • From: judygreg
    • Description:

      still does not work.

      Even cut and paste does not work

    • 7 months ago
    • Views: 6
    • Conversation: Rock Climbi...
  • Calling all climbers! Calling all climbers!

    • From: GORETEX_admin
    • Description:

      Calling all climbers!

      W.L. Gore and the American Alpine Club want to know which types of activities would encourage more climbers to join the AAC. W.L. Gore is a long-time supporter of the AAC, and we are encouraging our climbing customers to participate in the survey: http://www.surveywriter.net/in/survey/survey1086/aac002.asp

    • 7 months ago
    • Views: 116
    • Conversation: Rock Climbi...
  • Climb against the odds event i Climb against the odds event in Portland

    • From: MRiggs
    • Description:

      Please join me on Wednesday, FEB 24Th, 6:30-7:30pm, at THE CLEANERS AT ACE HOTEL PORTLAND, for a CLIMB AGAINST THE ODDS MT. SHASTA slide show and story about teamwork, passion, healing, struggle, and triumph. As I candidly share my story about climbing to the top of Mt. Shasta alongside cancer survivors on the 2009 CLIMB AGAINST THE ODDS team. My goal is to inspire other's to join this great cause and to become part of this year's CLIMB AGAINST THE ODDS team, guaranteed to be an unforgettable experi

    • 7 months ago
    • Views: 63
    • Conversation: Rock Climbi...
  • might not be a direct reply... might not be a direct reply...

    • From: colebingham
    • Description:

      But, I don't live in anything like a climbing community, per se - Charlottesville is just a college town.  However, I LOVE the little gyms around here and Richmond that cater to us climbers in really nice ways.  There's a converted truck-loading dock around C-Ville called Rocky Top that has a really great owner who just loves to help us out.  I'm a huge fan of the little hole-in-the-wall climbing gym that loves to love on the climbing crowd!

    • 7 months ago
    • Views: 98
    • Conversation: Rock Climbi...
  • im biased im biased

    • From: devinh
    • Description:

      I live in bend, not only is it a small community but a small climbing community. Every one knows each other and there is a big network of support. Must say I love it. The only other place I have been that could compare would be bishop......but places like Bishop and Red Rocks...Yosemite, Gunks etc... get so much foot traffic from out of state people or city folk, that its hard to see the community that supports the climbing. Thats why I say Bend is # 1 I could not rate any other because I have not spent

    • 7 months ago
    • Views: 90
    • Conversation: Rock Climbi...
  • Part of Colorado and Wyoming Part of Colorado and Wyoming

    • From: BrandonFriese
    • Description:
      Another Road trip covering parts of Colorado and Wyoming. Lots of fun had at every stop.
    • Set (22 items)
    • 8 months ago
    • Views: 170
    • Not yet rated
  • Michael from ColoRADo Michael from ColoRADo

    • From: MStancliff27
    • Description:

      ALoha all! I am Mike, and I have been living in Colorado since about 1998, with brief stints here and there in Seattle and Montana, but am from IL originally. I worked for Keystone Ski resort for a long time, and primarily enjoy snowboarding, bouldering, rock climbing, and hiking. I used to enjoy mountain biking, but I have not had a bike since my last two got stolen several years ago. Raising my daughter takes up most of my time. Well, and work too. We live down in North Thornton now, and while it isn't

    • 8 months ago
    • Views: 78
    • Conversation: New Members...
  • Backpacking Nicaragua Backpacking Nicaragua

    • From: thepatweir
    • Description:
      e-mail entry 1: last week I got sick, I had heat exhaustion from the trip from Managua. We got packed on one packed minivan, followed by an extremely over packed bus in Rivas. They wait until the bus gets full before leaving, no schedule abided, and by packed I don´t mean your mannerly 2-3 people per seat and then we drive off into the sunset...the bus waited untill we were jam packed with people sitting standing, leaning, around the sacks of rice and potatoes of course, while vendors magically found a path to weave through selling snacks, bevies, and sandwich bag chicken, while we waited. I was sitting by the window sweating balls. Then about 45 minutes and several bottles of water later, the bus pulled out bursting at the seams with people only to stop on the highway to let on 10 more people from another passing bus. I don´t know were they fit, they just did. e-mail entry 2: So some of you already know that I saw my first wild monkee(s) the other day. We took a trip up to a beach south of San Juan on a water taxi and got a glimpse of some raw nicaraguan beauty. We were supposed to camp but we got rained out and pat is too used to the cheap prices here and didn´t want to dish 8 bucks to camp. I agreed, it is a bit to pay for these standards, but secretly I was not keen on camping aflter I saw the most strangest crabs I´ve ever seen. I must have seen at least 6 different species of crabs in that one day, there were transparent ones that you absolutely could not see against the white sandy beach unless they ran rally close to your feet...but the strangest ones by far were the reddish orange crabs, with purple claws that lived in the jungle AWAY from the water. Jungle crabs that were strangely bright against an infinite green canvas of fauna, with no camouflage abilities whatsoever so you could only imagine they were highly poisonous to eat. It was strange to see such a daring crab so far form the water but I got used to it untill I realized their impressive climbing abilities. They lived in dug out tunnels, rock crevases, and high up in the trees. creepy. They are quick to hide or raise their claws at you when you approach but if you stay still and pay attention, you can see thousands of red dots all over the jungle skiddling about. Like an infestation. There was no place for me to camp in that jungle haha... In other news, pat is a little sick with something. He´s been in bed all day. If he is not feeling better by tomorrow I´m going to take him to the clinic. I´m sure he´s fine, some other travelers have also been getting sick I think it may be the heat... e-mail entry 3: We´ve been trying to plan a trip to La Flor since we left vancouver but could never sort out the mirad of details. But the other day we were bored and just hopped up and decided to pack our camping gear and get to el coco, the neighbouring beach, whichever way possible. I ran around a shopped for camping food while pat figured out a way to get us there. A pack of weiners, and some potatoes later (we were roughing it), pat came up to me and said: ´´ we have two choices, the maintenance guy that works at our apartment said we could hire his friend who is a cab driver for $45 american for a trip there and back with pick up tomorrow, or we can take the bus whith a chance getting robbed on the road´´ We left our valuables behind and took the bus. It was actually one of the better bus rides we´ve ever had here, breezy, not too chaotic and it was only a dollar each. But talk about washboard dirt roads! It would take a veteran bus rider to have the ability to fall asleep on those buses and I happen to be sitting right next to one. You hit pot holes and rivets so deep you actually get air time when your stomach comes up and makes an appearance in the rib cage. Dude next to me almost landed on my lap a few times. Pat had to stand most of the way. We got off at a convenience store on the side of the road walked down to the beach. The beach we went to, el coco, was supposed to have an unofficial free campground according to the lonely planet guide book. The book also said ¨turltle poachers live here, so be polite¨. And we were. There was no ´unofficial campground` we could make out so we went up to this construction site where they were building beachfront condos and asked if we could camp on the some of the ground they had cleared. The foreman said sure,fine...no fire and be careful. Be careful! He said that the site had a guard that would roam the area every few hours. Did I mention that the security guards here carry machine guns? Anyway... e-mail entry 4: So guess what? I have a story but you can't tell mom or dad. Aside form surfing the coolest waves, and sizzling under the sun on the sand with the crabs, last night pat and i were robbed at gun point. WE were driving home from a nearby beach and we unintentional left when it was already getting dark, that's a no-no around here. So there was 6 of us in an SUV and we were driving on a little dirt road and as we were driving, we came up to a huge log blocking the road and we already knew someone had intentionally put it there. So we debated what to do but it all came down to that stupid log blocking our way home so everyone got out to move it as a team. Just when we were all out of the vehicle 2 men wearing t/shirts around their faces appeared out of the shadows and started yelling and pointing guns at us. They told us to get our hand in the air then went through the truck and took all our stuff. It was mostly scary because there were more people we could hear in the bushes, and we were all standing in front of the headlights blinded by what was going on. But we are all fine, just a little shaken up and few possessions and dollars less. They weren't going to hurt us though, they just wanted our money and stuff, which they took. The only thing that sucks is now pat and I are even more broke in a really poor country but it just makes it even more of an adventure. You have to promise not to tell mom, I will. Eventually.
    • Set (25 items)
    • 8 months ago
    • Views: 122
  • Re: Top 3 best climbing commun Re: Top 3 best climbing communities

    • From: BrandonFriese
    • Description:

      My favorite climbing community is Mt. Arapiles in South Eastern Australia.  There are so many amazing trad routes that are all within 2-10 minute walk from camp.  There is a large group of people that are continuously living there and know all the great routes and are willing to share.  It is extremely cheap to stay there, and even without a car it is very easy to get to town for supplies and a shower.  You need one of those at least once every 10 days.  You are also a short driv

    • 8 months ago
    • Views: 58
    • Conversation: Rock Climbi...
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